Three weeks, three trains, one toddler and a great many custard tarts
We flew into Lisbon and went north by everything except a plane: the fast train to Porto, the slow one up the Douro, a hire car into Galicia and a ferry to an island you need a permit for. Pip, who is two, set the pace. It was the right one.

- When
- 1 – 24 May 2026
- How long
- 24 days
- Who went
- June, Teo and Pip (2½)
- Stops
- 7
- Getting around
- Trains, a hire car, a ferry, and Teo's shoulders
Trip details
- Who went
- June, Teo and Pip (2½)
- Getting around
- Trains, a hire car, a ferry, and Teo's shoulders
In this story · 2 chapters
Twenty-three nights, one toddler, two regrets
We got home on a Sunday evening in late May, sunburnt, damp and very slightly fatter. Pip walked into the flat, looked around at her own toys as if they were a hotel's, and asked when we were going home.
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01 The two regrets
- Six nights in Lisbon was one too many, with a toddler and those stairs. Four in Lisbon and two more in the Douro next time.
- We didn't book the cellar tour in Porto and it was full for three days. Book it before you go.
02 What it all cost
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Would we do it again? We are already planning to. Galicia's north coast next spring, the bits between Santiago and the sea. Pip has asked whether there will be octopus. There will be octopus.
Read nextWe are taking a two-year-old to Portugal, on purposeWhere it started, and the plan we didn't stick to.Photos
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