Hiroshima, quietly

There's no funny way to write about the Peace Memorial Museum, so I won't try. We went on a grey morning and spent three hours inside, and came out into a park full of schoolchildren folding paper cranes and old men feeding sparrows, and sat on a bench by the river for a long time. Go. Give it the morning. Don't plan anything after.

What surprised us was the city around it: bright, modern, friendly, and very proud of its food. That afternoon a man in a baseball cap with a Carp logo walked us three streets out of his way to show us where to eat.

Okonomiyaki, Hiroshima style

In Osaka they mix everything together. In Hiroshima they build it in layers, on a hot plate, in front of you, with noodles in the middle, and anyone in Hiroshima will tell you at length why theirs is right. Teo has been making it at home ever since. This is his version.

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